Finding your GE bottom freezer not freezing while the refrigerator section remains cool is a frustrating experience that can lead to significant food spoilage. This specific issue is a common problem for homeowners, but it often stems from identifiable components that can be tested and replaced.
When a freezer fails to maintain its set temperature, the root cause usually lies within the sealed system, the defrost circuit, or the air distribution components. This guide provides a professional, step-by-step approach to diagnosing and resolving these issues, covering every critical part from the condenser coils to the main control board.
GE bottom freezer not freezing: Initial Diagnostics
Before disassembling the appliance, it is essential to perform a few preliminary checks. The problem may not always require a complex repair; sometimes, environmental factors or simple maintenance oversights are to blame.
Checking Air Circulation and Vents
Proper air circulation is the lifeblood of any refrigeration system. In GE bottom freezer models, cold air is produced in the freezer compartment and then circulated to the fresh food section. If the air vents located in the back of the freezer are blocked by large food items, the airflow is restricted.
Inspect the freezer to ensure that boxes or bags are not pressed directly against the back wall or the air vents. Overpacking the freezer can choke the system, preventing cold air from cycling effectively. Rearranging items to allow for clear pathways ensures that the evaporator fan motor can distribute chilled air evenly throughout the compartment.
Inspecting Door Seals for Leaks
If warm air from your kitchen continuously enters the freezer, the system will struggle to keep up. This often manifests as frost buildup around the door edges or on the food itself. Check the door gasket (seal) for any cracks, tears, or areas where it has become detached. A simple test involves closing the door on a dollar bill; if you can pull the bill out with little resistance, the seal is weak and likely needs replacing.
Condenser Coils and Heat Dissipation
One of the most overlooked causes of cooling failure involves the condenser coils. These coils are responsible for releasing the heat removed from the interior of the appliance.
Cleaning Dirty Condenser Coils
On many GE bottom freezer models, the condenser coils are located at the bottom of the unit, accessible by removing the toe grille, or on the back. Over time, these coils become coated in dust, pet hair, and debris. When the coils are dirty, they cannot efficiently dissipate heat.
As a result, the compressor must work harder and run longer to achieve the desired temperature. If the buildup is severe, the compressor may overheat and shut down prematurely, leaving the freezer warm. Using a coil brush and a vacuum to clean these coils is a critical maintenance step that should be performed every six to twelve months.
Assessing the Evaporator Fan Motor
If the condenser coils are clean and the airflow is unobstructed, the next suspect is the evaporator fan motor. This fan is located in the freezer compartment, typically behind the rear panel. Its primary job is to draw air over the freezing cold evaporator coils and circulate it.
Symptoms of Fan Failure
If you open the freezer door and do not hear the fan running (note: you may need to press the door switch to simulate a closed door), the motor may be faulty. Another symptom is a loud chirping or squealing noise, indicating worn bearings.
If the fan is not running, the evaporator coils will get extremely cold, but the air inside the box will remain warm. You can test the fan motor for continuity using a multimeter or check for voltage coming from the main control board. If the motor receives power but does not spin, it requires replacement.
Defrost System Malfunctions
A failure in the defrost system is a leading cause for a GE bottom freezer not freezing. Modern freezers are “frost-free,” meaning they automatically melt frost off the cooling coils. When this system fails, ice accumulates until it blocks airflow entirely.
Visualizing the Evaporator Coils
To diagnose this, you must remove the back panel inside the freezer to expose the evaporator coils. If they are completely encased in a block of ice or heavy snow, you have a defrost issue. A functioning system should have a light coating of frost that melts away periodically.
Testing the Defrost Heater
The defrost heater is a heating element located directly beneath or woven into the evaporator coils. Its job is to turn on for a few minutes during the defrost cycle to melt accumulated ice.
To test it, disconnect the refrigerator from power and access the heater. disconnect the wires and use a multimeter to check for continuity. If the meter reads infinity (open circuit), the heater element is burnt out and must be replaced.
The Role of the Thermistor and Defrost Timer
The operation of the heater is governed by a defrost timer (in older mechanical models) or a main control board utilizing a thermistor (in newer electronic models).
- Thermistor: This small sensor changes resistance based on temperature. In GE electronic models, the evaporator thermistor clips onto the coils. If it provides incorrect resistance values to the control board, the board may never initiate a defrost cycle. You can test the thermistor by measuring its resistance and comparing it to the temperature-resistance chart found in the technical sheet (usually hidden under the unit or behind the top grille).
- Defrost Timer: In older units, a mechanical timer advances the system into defrost mode. If the timer motor fails or the gears get stuck, the fridge will stay in cooling mode indefinitely, causing massive frost buildup. You can manually advance the dial on the timer (usually located in the kick plate area or control console) to see if the heater kicks on.
Compressor and Start Relay Issues
The compressor is the heart of the refrigeration cycle, pumping refrigerant through the system. If the compressor is not running, the freezer cannot cool.
Diagnosing the Start Relay
The start relay is a small electrical component attached to the side of the compressor. It helps the compressor motor overcome the initial resistance to start spinning. If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of the fridge every few minutes, but the compressor never kicks on, the start relay is likely the culprit.
To confirm, unplug the fridge, remove the relay, and give it a gentle shake. If it rattles like a maraca, the internal components have shattered, and it needs to be replaced. Even if it doesn’t rattle, it can be tested for continuity between the start and run terminals.
Compressor Failure
If the start relay is good, the fans are running, and the compressor is humming but vibrating excessively hot without cooling, the compressor itself may have internal mechanical failure or a locked rotor. Conversely, if the compressor runs quietly and continuously but the evaporator coils show only a partial frost pattern (e.g., only one or two coils have frost while the rest are bare), this indicates a sealed system leak or a restriction. Sealed system repairs are complex and typically require a licensed professional.
Temperature Control Components
Sometimes the issue is not with the generation of cold air, but the regulation of it.
Temperature Control Thermostat
In simpler models, a temperature control thermostat directly switches the compressor and fans on and off based on the internal temperature. If this thermostat acts up, it may not send power to the cooling components even when the freezer is warm.
You can test this by turning the thermostat knob from the lowest to the highest setting. You should hear a distinct “click” when the compressor turns on. If there is no click and the continuity test fails while the thermostat is in a “cold” position, the part is defective.
Main Control Board
On modern GE electronic refrigerators, the main control board is the brain of the operation. It reads data from the thermistors and sends voltage to the compressor, fans, and defrost system. If you have verified that the fans, compressor, and heater are all functional but are not receiving power, the main control board may have a burnt relay or a failed logic circuit.
Inspect the board (usually located in a panel on the back of the fridge) for burn marks, swollen capacitors, or damaged solder joints. If the board is faulty, it will need to be replaced to restore proper function to the unit.
Summary of Troubleshooting Steps
Diagnosing a GE bottom freezer that refuses to freeze involves a logical process of elimination. By systematically checking these components, you can identify the weak link:
- Air Circulation: Ensure vents are clear and the freezer isn’t overpacked.
- Condenser Coils: Clean dust and debris to ensure heat dissipation.
- Frost Buildup: Check door seals and inspect evaporator coils for heavy icing.
- Evaporator Fan Motor: Verify the fan is spinning and circulating air.
- Start Relay: Listen for clicking and test the relay on the compressor.
- Defrost System: Test the defrost heater and thermistor if ice blockage is present.
- Controls: Verify the temperature control thermostat or main control board is sending power.
By understanding how the condenser coils, evaporator fan motor, start relay, and defrost heater work together, you can effectively troubleshoot the problem. Whether it is a simple cleaning job or a component replacement, this guide provides the roadmap to getting your GE bottom freezer back to freezing temperatures.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my GE freezer not freezing, but the refrigerator section is still cold?
This is often caused by restricted airflow or a defrost system failure. If air vents in the back of the freezer are blocked by food, cold air cannot circulate. Alternatively, if the evaporator coils are clogged with ice due to a faulty defrost heater or thermistor, the fan cannot pull enough cold air through the system to maintain freezing temperatures, even if the refrigerator section still feels cool.
How often should I clean the condenser coils on my GE bottom freezer?
You should clean the condenser coils every six to twelve months. Over time, these coils accumulate dust and pet hair, which prevents them from releasing heat. When the coils are dirty, the compressor must work harder and may eventually overheat or shut down, leading to a loss of cooling power in the freezer.
What does it mean if I hear a clicking sound coming from the back of the fridge?
A clicking sound typically indicates a failing start relay. This component helps the compressor start up; if it is defective, the compressor will try to start, fail, and make a clicking noise every few minutes. You can check this by removing the relay and shaking it; if it rattles like a maraca, it is broken and needs to be replaced.
How can I tell if the evaporator fan motor has failed?
If you don’t hear the fan running when the freezer door is closed (or when the door switch is pressed), the motor may be faulty. Other signs include a loud chirping or squealing noise. If the fan isn’t working, the evaporator coils will get very cold, but that chilled air won’t be distributed throughout the freezer compartment, causing the temperature to rise.
How do I test if my freezer door seal is leaking?
You can perform a “dollar bill test” by closing the freezer door on a dollar bill so that half is sticking out. If you can pull the bill out easily with no resistance, the gasket is loose or worn out. A poor seal allows warm, moist air to enter the freezer, leading to heavy frost buildup and poor cooling performance.
