LG dishwasher 1E error code
Troubleshooting the LG Dishwasher 1E Error Code
Encountering an error code on your appliance can be frustrating, especially when it halts your daily routine. The LG dishwasher 1E error code is a common alert that appears on the digital display, often causing confusion for homeowners trying to decipher its meaning. While it is frequently misread due to the digital font—where the letter “I” closely resembles the number “1”—addressing the underlying issue is critical for restoring your dishwasher’s performance.
This guide provides a comprehensive professional analysis of the LG dishwasher 1E error code, focusing on the most probable causes related to water supply and system pressure. We will explore the specific components involved, including the water inlet valve, sensors, and hoses, to help you systematically troubleshoot and resolve the problem.
Understanding the LG Dishwasher 1E Error Code
In the vast majority of cases, the LG dishwasher 1E error code is actually the “IE” code, which stands for “Inlet Error.” The digital segmentation on LG control panels makes the “I” look identical to a “1.” This error specifically indicates that the dishwasher has failed to fill with water within a set timeframe. If the water level does not reach the required threshold after the cycle begins, the main control board triggers this alarm to prevent damage to the circulation pump and heating element.
However, depending on your specific model, a true “1E” or “AE” code can sometimes relate to a leak detection or drainage issue. Because the troubleshooting steps involving the water supply are the most common solution for this display, we will prioritize inspecting the inlet system while also covering potential leak sources.
Initial Checks: Water Supply and Pressure
Before disassembling any part of the appliance, you must verify that the external water conditions are met. The LG dishwasher 1E error code is often triggered by simple external restrictions rather than internal mechanical failure.
1. Inspect the Water Tap and Supply Line
The most straightforward cause is a closed or partially closed water tap. Locate the shut-off valve under your sink that feeds the dishwasher. Ensure it is turned fully counter-clockwise to the open position. If the valve was recently used or bumped, it might be restricting flow.
Next, trace the water supply line from the tap to the dishwasher. This line, often a braided metal or copper tube, must be free of kinks or sharp bends. A pinched line can drastically reduce the volume of water entering the unit, causing the machine to time out and display the error.
2. Verify Water Pressure
Your dishwasher requires a minimum water pressure (typically between 20 and 120 PSI) to function correctly. If your home is experiencing low pressure due to municipal work or a failing home pressure regulator, the valve may not open sufficiently. You can test this by disconnecting the line (after turning off the water) and running it into a bucket to visually confirm a strong, steady stream.
Inspecting the Water Inlet System
If the external supply is functioning correctly, the issue likely lies within the dishwasher’s intake components.
Checking the Filter Screen
The water inlet valve is equipped with a small mesh filter screen designed to catch sediment and debris from your water pipes. Over time, calcium deposits or grit can clog this screen, restricting water flow.
To clean it:
- Turn off the water supply and unplug the dishwasher.
- Disconnect the inlet hose from the back of the dishwasher or the valve itself (located behind the lower kick plate).
- Use needle-nose pliers to gently remove the small filter screen located inside the valve’s threaded port.
- Rinse the screen under warm water and use a soft brush to remove debris.
- Reinstall the screen and hose, then test the cycle.
Testing the Water Inlet Valve
The water inlet valve is the electromechanical gatekeeper of your dishwasher. It uses a solenoid valve to open and close the water flow based on signals from the control board. If the solenoid fails, the valve will not open, triggering the LG dishwasher 1E error code.
To test the valve:
- Access the valve behind the lower access panel.
- Inspect the wiring harness connected to the solenoid for any signs of corrosion or loose connections.
- Use a multimeter to check the solenoid for continuity. A functional valve should show resistance (typically between 500 to 1500 ohms, though this varies by model). If the reading is infinite (open loop), the solenoid is burnt out, and the entire valve assembly must be replaced.
Advanced Sensors and Control Issues
Modern LG dishwashers rely on complex sensors to monitor water levels. If the mechanical flow is good, a sensor might be reporting false data.
The Pressure Sensor and Air Chamber
Some models utilize a pressure sensor (or water level sensor) that measures the air pressure in a small tube connected to the sump. As water fills the tub, air pressure increases, telling the sensor the water level is rising.
- Blockages: If the tube connecting the sensor to the sump is clogged with food debris, the sensor cannot read the pressure change, leading the machine to believe it is empty.
- Failure: A faulty pressure sensor will fail to send the “full” signal to the main control board, causing the valve to stay open too long or the system to error out.
The Float Switch Assembly
The float switch serves as a flood protection device. It consists of a plastic float in the tub and a switch underneath.
- Stuck Float: If the float is stuck in the “up” position due to debris or dried detergent, the machine thinks it is overfilled and will prevent the water inlet valve from opening. Ensure the float moves up and down freely.
- Wiring: Check the wiring harness connecting the float switch. A broken wire here can simulate a flood condition, preventing the fill cycle.
Addressing Leaks and Drainage (Alternative 1E Causes)
If your model uses the “1E” code specifically for leaks (similar to the E1 code), the system is detecting water in the base pan of the unit.
- Drain Hose Position: Ensure your drain hose has a “high loop” under the sink. If the hose is lying flat on the floor, dirty water can siphon back into the dishwasher, or clean water can siphon out immediately after filling. This premature draining mimics a “no fill” error.
- Internal Leaks: Inspect the connection between the inlet hose and the valve. A small drip here can trigger the flood sensor (float switch) in the base, which shuts off the inlet valve as a safety precaution.
When to Replace the Main Control Board
If all mechanical components—valve, pressure sensor, float switch, and wiring—test okay, the issue may stem from the main control board. The board sends the voltage required to open the water inlet valve. If the relay on the board is defective, it will not energize the solenoid valve even if the valve itself is functional. This is a rare but possible cause for the persistent appearance of the LG dishwasher 1E error code.
Summary of Troubleshooting Steps
| Component | What to Check | Potential Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Water Tap | Is it fully open? | Turn valve counter-clockwise. |
| Inlet Hose | Kinks or bends? | Straighten the line. |
| Filter Screen | Clogged with sediment? | Remove and clean mesh. |
| Water Inlet Valve | Solenoid continuity? | Replace valve assembly. |
| Float Switch | Stuck in “up” position? | Clean debris around float. |
| Wiring Harness | Loose or corroded? | Reconnect or repair wires. |
By methodically checking these entities—starting from the water supply line and moving inward to the pressure sensor and main control board—you can accurately diagnose the source of the error. Whether it is a simple kink in the hose or a failed solenoid valve, understanding the mechanics behind the LG dishwasher 1E error code ensures you apply the right fix to get your appliance running efficiently again.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the error code 1E or IE?
In most LG dishwashers, the code is actually “IE,” which stands for “Inlet Error.” Due to the digital font used on the control panel, the letter “I” often appears identical to the number “1.” This code signifies that the unit is not receiving a sufficient amount of water within the required timeframe to begin the wash cycle.
Why is my LG dishwasher displaying a 1E error if the water supply is turned on?
Even if your main water valve is open, the error can occur if the inlet hose is kinked, the home’s water pressure is too low, or the small mesh filter screen inside the water inlet valve is clogged with sediment. Additionally, if the water inlet valve’s solenoid has failed mechanically or electrically, it will prevent water from entering the machine.
How can I tell if the water inlet valve needs to be replaced?
You can test the valve using a multimeter to check for electrical continuity. After disconnecting power to the unit, check the solenoid terminals; a functional valve should show resistance between 500 and 1500 ohms. If the reading is infinite, the solenoid is burnt out. You should also check for physical clogs in the filter screen that might be restricting flow.
Can a stuck float switch trigger this error code?
Yes. The float switch is a safety device designed to prevent flooding. If the plastic float inside the tub is stuck in the “up” position by food debris or dried detergent, the dishwasher will incorrectly “think” it is already full and refuse to open the water inlet valve, resulting in an inlet error.
What is the “high loop” and why does it matter for this error?
A “high loop” refers to the drain hose being routed above the level of the sink drain. If the hose is not properly looped, water can siphon out of the dishwasher as fast as it fills, or dirty water can flow back in. This premature draining mimics a “no fill” condition, causing the control board to trigger the 1E or IE error code.