Samsung washer drain pump reset procedures are often misunderstood; unlike a router, your washer doesn’t have a single “reset” button that magically fixes drainage issues. As a Senior SEO Specialist and appliance repair expert, I can tell you that what most users are looking for is a way to clear the persistent 5C error code (or 5E error code on older models) and get their machine to drain again.
This guide provides a professional, step-by-step approach to manually resetting your pump system, clearing the digital logic board, and physically maintaining the drainage components to restore your front load washing machine to working order.
Understanding the “Reset”: Power Cycle vs. Hard Reset
When your washer freezes or refuses to drain, the control module may be stuck in an error loop. Before tearing the machine apart, perform these two software-level resets.
1. The Standard Power Cycle (Soft Reset)
This is the first line of defense for any electronic appliance repair.
- Step 1: Turn off the washer using the Power button.
- Step 2: Unplug the power cord from the electrical outlet.
- Step 3: Wait for at least 60 seconds. This allows the electrical capacitors on the control board to fully discharge, clearing temporary memory glitches.
- Step 4: Plug the washer back in and attempt to run a “Rinse + Spin” cycle to see if the drain pump engages.
2. The Network Reset (For Smart Models)
If your machine is connected to Wi-Fi, sometimes network interruptions can cause the logic board to hang.
- Hold the Smart Control button until the Wi-Fi icon blinks or turns off (refer to your specific model’s manual for the exact combination).
- Reconnect the washer to your network via the SmartThings app.
Samsung Washer Drain Pump Reset via Diagnostic Mode (Pro Tip)
If a simple power cycle doesn’t work, you can force a “drain pump test” using the washer’s technician service mode. This bypasses standard sensors and forces the pump to run, effectively acting as a hard reset for the component.
Note: Button combinations vary by model (e.g., WF42H, VF50K). Try these common combinations:
- Enter Service Mode: With the power on, hold Delay End + Soil Level (or Spin + Soil Level + Power) simultaneously for 3–5 seconds.
- Navigate to Pump Test: Rotate the dial until you see “Drain” or the number 7 (common for drain tests) on the display.
- Activate: Press Start. The pump should hum and attempt to evacuate water. If it runs here but not during a cycle, the issue is likely a sensor or control board logic error rather than a dead pump.
Physical “Reset”: Clearing the Drainage System
If the software resets fail, the “blockage” is physical. The 5C error code (or 5E) is triggered when the pressure sensor detects that water hasn’t left the drum within a set time (usually 15 minutes). You must “reset” the physical flow of water.
Step 1: Emergency Draining
You cannot clean the pump if the drum is full of water.
- Locate the debris filter access panel on the bottom front of the machine.
- Open the panel and pull out the small emergency drain tube (usually black or grey).
- Place a shallow pan or bowl under the tube.
- Remove the cap from the tube and let the water drain completely. Warning: If the cycle was hot, this water may be scalding.
Step 2: Servicing the Debris Filter
The debris filter (or drain pump filter) is the most common culprit for drainage errors.
- Once drained, twist the large circular filter knob counter-clockwise.
- Pull the filter out. Expect a small amount of residual water.
- Clean the filter thoroughly under warm running water. Remove lint, coins, hair clips, or other debris.
- Crucial Step: Shine a flashlight into the empty filter housing. You will see the impeller (the spinning blades of the pump) at the back.
Step 3: Impeller Inspection
A “stuck” pump often just needs a manual assist.
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- Use a screwdriver or your finger (ensure power is OFF) to gently flick the impeller.
- Normal: It should move in jerky steps (magnetic resistance).
- Abnormal: If it spins freely with no resistance, the impeller shaft is broken. If it refuses to move at all, debris is jammed inside the pump housing.
Step 4: Check the Drain Hose
A drain hose that is kinked or inserted too far into the standpipe can trigger a siphon effect or backflow, confusing the washer’s sensors.
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- Ensure the hose is not kinked behind the machine.
- Verify the hose end is not submerged in standing water.
- Height requirement: The drain hose must be supported at a height of 18–34 inches to function correctly.
Summary of Samsung Drainage Error Codes
| Error Code | Meaning | Primary Fix |
|---|---|---|
| 5C | Water is not draining. | Clean debris filter, check drain hose. |
| 5E | Older version of 5C (Drain Error). | Same as 5C; standard for older models. |
| nd | No Drain. | Pump blockage or control board failure. |
| SE | Sensor Error (rare). | Check drain pump wiring or PCB. |
When to Replace the Drain Pump
If you have performed the Samsung washer drain pump reset (power cycle), cleaned the filter, verified the hose is clear, and the 5C error code persists, the drain pump motor itself has likely failed.
- Symptoms of failure: A low humming sound with no pumping, or absolute silence during the drain cycle.
- The Fix: This requires opening the washer cabinet and replacing the pump assembly. While this is a DIY-able task for many, those uncomfortable with electronics should contact a professional appliance repair technician.
By following this hierarchy—Power Reset > Diagnostic Test > Physical Cleaning—you can solve 90% of Samsung drainage issues without buying a single part.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between the 5C and 5E error codes?
Both codes indicate a drainage failure, meaning the water has not left the drum within the allotted time. 5C is the standard error code used on modern Samsung washers, while 5E is the equivalent code found on older models.
Is there a specific “reset” button for a Samsung washer?
No, Samsung washers do not have a single dedicated reset button. To reset the system, you must perform a power cycle by unplugging the machine for at least 60 seconds or use specific button combinations to enter a diagnostic “Service Mode” to test individual components like the drain pump.
How do I drain the water if the pump isn’t working?
If the drum is full of water, you can use the emergency drain tube located behind the access panel at the bottom front of the machine. Pull out the small black or grey tube, place a shallow pan underneath, and remove the cap to manually evacuate the water before servicing the debris filter.
How do I know if my drain pump motor has failed and needs replacement?
If you have cleared the debris filter, checked the drain hose for kinks, and performed a power reset but the 5C error persists, the pump may be dead. Common signs of motor failure include a loud humming sound with no water movement or complete silence during the drain portion of the cycle.
How often should I clean the debris filter to prevent drainage errors?
While the guide focuses on fixing current errors, regularly servicing the debris filter is the best way to prevent future 5C or 5E codes. You should check the filter for coins, lint, and hair clips periodically to ensure the pump’s impeller can spin freely.
