Dealing with a laundry appliance that refuses to finish its cycle is frustrating, especially when you can hear the Samsung washer pump running but not draining the water. This specific issue often indicates that while the drain motor is mechanically active, a blockage or component failure is preventing the water from exiting the drum.
Samsung washer pump running but not draining: Diagnosis and Fixes
When you hear the hum of the pump motor but see standing water in the drum, the problem is rarely that the pump is “dead” in the electrical sense. Instead, the system is likely battling a physical obstruction or a mechanical slip.
In a front load washer, the drainage system relies on a clear path from the tub to the house drain. If the Samsung washer pump running but not draining scenario occurs, it is usually due to one of three categories: a blockage in the filtration system, an obstruction in the hose network, or a mechanical failure within the drain pump assembly itself.
Below is a comprehensive guide to troubleshooting these specific components.
1. Inspecting the Debris Filter (Coin Trap)
The most common culprit for drainage issues in Samsung units is a clogged drain pump filter, also known as the debris filter or coin trap. This component is designed to catch foreign objects like loose change, lint, and buttons before they damage the pump.
How to check and clean it:
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- Locate the service panel on the front bottom right (or left) of the washer.
- Have a shallow pan and towels ready.
- Pull out the small emergency drain tube, remove the cap, and let the excess water drain into your pan.
- Once drained, twist the debris filter counter-clockwise to remove it.
- Inspect the filter for lint, hair, or small objects.
- Shine a light into the filter housing to ensure the impeller (the small fan blades inside the pump) is not obstructed by debris.
If this filter was packed with lint, clearing it will likely resolve the 5C error code or ND error code immediately.
2. Verifying the Drain Hose Installation
If the filter is clean, the next suspect is the drain hose. Even a functioning pump cannot push water through a kinked or blocked line.
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Key checkpoints for the hose:
- Kinks and Bends: Pull the washer forward and ensure the hose is not pinched against the wall.
- Height Requirements: The drain hose must be installed at a height of at least 18 inches but no higher than 96 inches. If it is too low, water may siphon back in; if too high, the pump may struggle to overcome gravity.
- Insertion Depth: Ensure the hose is not inserted more than 6 to 8 inches into the standpipe. Pushing it too deep can create a vacuum seal, preventing water from flowing out.
3. Checking the Sump Hose and Check Valve
Internal blockages often occur in the sump hose, which connects the bottom of the tub to the pump assembly. Heavier items like socks or small washcloths can slip between the door gasket and the drum, lodging themselves in this hose.
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Additionally, some models feature a check valve within the corrugated drain tube. This valve prevents backflow but can get stuck in the closed position due to lint buildup. Squeezing the sump hose gently (if accessible) can sometimes dislodge minor blockages, but often you will need to disconnect the hose clamps to physically inspect it.
4. Diagnosing the Drain Pump Assembly
If the water path is clear, you must examine the drain pump assembly. You have already established that the pump is running (humming), but it may not be moving water.
- Damaged Impeller: The impeller is the plastic fan inside the pump that propels water. Over time, it can separate from the motor shaft. In this state, the motor spins, but the impeller remains stationary or wobbles ineffectively.
- Debris in the Impeller: Sometimes a small object like a screw or bra wire makes it past the filter and physically jams the impeller, causing a buzzing noise without rotation.
If the impeller is broken or spins freely on the shaft with no resistance, the entire drain pump assembly usually requires replacement.
5. The Role of the Pressure Switch
The pressure switch (or water level sensor) monitors the water level in the tub via a small air tube. If this switch malfunctions or the tube is clogged with “gunk,” the washer may “think” it is empty when it is actually full, or vice versa.
While less common than pump blockages, a faulty pressure switch can prevent the control board from sending the correct signals to the drain pump, or it might cause the pump to run endlessly even after the water is gone (dry pumping).
Understanding Error Codes
Samsung washers are equipped with diagnostic systems that display specific codes when drainage fails:
- 5C Error Code: This indicates a drainage error. It essentially means the sensor has not detected a drop in water level within a set time limit.
- ND Error Code: This stands for “No Drain.” It is functionally the same as the 5C code and points directly to the inability of the water to exit the machine.
Summary of Troubleshooting Steps
If you find your Samsung washer pump running but not draining, follow this logical order of operations to minimize downtime:
- Clear the Debris Filter: This fixes the issue in the majority of cases.
- Straighten the Drain Hose: Ensure there are no kinks behind the machine.
- Check for Siphon Issues: Verify the hose is not shoved too far down the standpipe.
- Inspect the Sump Hose: Look for internal obstructions like socks (requires disassembly).
- Test the Impeller: Ensure it is mechanically sound and attached to the motor shaft.
By systematically isolating these variables—from the coin trap to the pressure switch—you can identify the root cause effectively. If the pump motor hums but the impeller is sheared off, replacing the pump is a straightforward repair that restores your washer to full functionality.
Frequently Asked Questions
What do the 5C and ND error codes on my Samsung washer mean?
Both the 5C and ND error codes indicate a drainage failure. These codes appear when the pressure switch does not detect a drop in the water level within a specific timeframe. This is usually caused by a clogged debris filter, a kinked drain hose, or a mechanical issue with the pump assembly.
Why is my pump humming if the water isn’t moving?
If you hear the pump running, it means the motor is electrically active, but a mechanical or physical issue is stopping the water. This often happens because the debris filter is blocked, an object like a sock is stuck in the internal sump hose, or the impeller (the fan blades inside the pump) has broken or detached from the motor shaft.
How do I properly clean the debris filter?
To clean the filter, open the service panel at the bottom front of the washer. Use the emergency drain tube to empty any standing water into a shallow pan, then unscrew the debris filter (coin trap) by turning it counter-clockwise. Remove any lint, coins, or debris, and ensure the impeller inside the housing can spin freely before putting the filter back.
Can the way my drain hose is installed prevent the washer from draining?
Yes. The drain hose must be installed at a height between 18 and 96 inches. If it is too high, the pump cannot overcome gravity; if it is too low, water may siphon back into the machine. Additionally, ensure the hose is not inserted more than 6 to 8 inches into the standpipe, as pushing it too deep can create a vacuum seal that blocks the flow of water.
What should I check if the filter and drain hose are both clear?
If the external paths are clear, you should inspect the internal sump hose that connects the tub to the pump for trapped items like small washcloths or socks. You should also check the pump’s impeller. If the impeller is wobbly or spins freely without any resistance from the motor, the drain pump assembly has likely failed mechanically and needs to be replaced.
