Home Appliance Repair Samsung washer clicking but not starting: Troubleshooting

Samsung washer clicking but not starting: Troubleshooting

Is your Samsung washer clicking but not starting, leaving your laundry piled up and your patience wearing thin? This frustrating issue often mimics a mechanical heartbeat—a repetitive “click-click-click” without the drum ever turning—indicating a communication breakdown between the machine’s safety systems and its main components.

When a Samsung washer clicks but fails to launch a cycle, it is usually a safety protocol halting operation to prevent damage or leaks. The clicking sound is typically an electromechanical component, such as a relay switch or a door lock solenoid, attempting to engage but failing to secure a connection.

Here is a comprehensive guide to troubleshooting and fixing this issue, professionally structured to help you diagnose the problem efficiently.

Understanding the “Click”: What Is It?

Before tearing apart your appliance, it is vital to identify the source of the sound. The “click” is a functional sound produced by two main systems:

  • The Door/Lid Lock System: A mechanical solenoid trying to slide a bolt into the door strike to secure the unit.
  • The Main Control Board: Electrical relay switches opening and closing to send power to the motor or pump.

If the click is rapid (like a machine gun) or rhythmic (every few seconds), it helps narrow down the culprit immediately.

Common Cause 1: Door Lock Assembly and Latch Failure

The most frequent reason for a Samsung washer clicking but not starting is a failure in the locking mechanism. Whether you have a front load washer or a top loader, the machine must verify the door is completely sealed before the main control board releases water.

Samsung washer clicking but not starting: Troubleshooting
Samsung washer clicking but not starting: Troubleshooting

The Door Latch and Door Strike

On front load washers, the door latch interacts with a plastic or metal piece on the door called the door strike. If the door strike is misaligned, cracked, or loose, the latch cannot physically engage. You will hear the solenoid click 2-3 times as it attempts to lock. When it fails, the washer will pause and may eventually display the Error code dC (Door Check).

Troubleshooting Steps:

  1. Open the door and inspect the door strike for damage. Tighten the screws if it feels loose.
  2. Clean the door latch mechanism of any lint or debris that might be blocking the sensor.
  3. Close the door firmly and listen. A single solid click usually means success; multiple clicks indicate failure.

The Door Lock Assembly

If the physical latch seems fine, the internal switches inside the door lock assembly may be faulty. The assembly contains a wax motor or solenoid that sends a “LOCKED” signal to the computer. If the board sends power (the click) but never receives the “LOCKED” signal back, it will not start the drive motor.

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Common Cause 2: Main Control Board and Relays

If the door locks successfully (you cannot pull it open) but the machine still clicks and sits idle, the issue likely resides in the main control board.

The control board uses a relay switch to manage high-voltage components like the motor and pump. Over time, the solder joints on these relays can crack, or the internal contacts can carbonize. When this happens, you hear the relay clicking as it tries to complete the circuit, but the electricity cannot bridge the gap to power the component.

Diagnosis:

  • Unplug the washer and remove the top or rear panel to access the board.
  • Inspect the board for burn marks or swollen capacitors.
  • Listen closely: if the clicking comes specifically from the upper back console area, a dying relay on the board is the prime suspect.

Common Cause 3: Motor and Sensor Issues

Sometimes the clicking occurs after the door locks, right when the drum should start spinning. This suggests the drive motor is trying to engage but is being stopped by a sensor error.

Hall Sensor (Rotor Position Sensor)

The Hall sensor monitors the speed and position of the rotor. If this sensor fails or becomes disconnected, the control board will not know the motor’s status. It may pulse power to the motor (causing a clicking or jerking sound) and then cut power immediately to prevent damage. This often triggers a 3E error code, but initially, it may just present as clicking.

Read more Samsung washing machine 3E1 error

Wiring Harness

Vibration is the enemy of electronics. A loose wiring harness connecting the motor or the Hall sensor to the main board can cause intermittent contact. The “click” you hear is the relay engaging, but the loose wire prevents the current from reaching the motor, causing the system to reset and click again.

Common Cause 4: Drain Pump and Drainage

In many Samsung wash cycles, the first action after locking the door is a brief drain sequence to remove old water. If the drain pump is jammed with debris or has a seized impeller, the control board may energize the pump relay (click), detect zero RPMs or high resistance, and abort the cycle.

Check the Pump Filter:

  1. Locate the debris filter door (usually bottom left on front loaders).
  2. Drain the water using the emergency tube.
  3. Remove the filter and check for coins, buttons, or lint that could be jamming the drain pump impeller.

Troubleshooting Guide for Top Loaders: The Lid Switch

For top-load models, the lid switch performs the same function as the door lock. However, top loaders often use a magnetic sensor or a mechanical pin.

  • Symptom: You press start, hear a click, and the lid does not lock.
  • Fix: Check if the magnet on the lid is missing (common in older models) or if the hinge is bent, preventing the lid switch from aligning.

Summary Checklist

To resolve your Samsung washer clicking but not starting, follow this logical order:

  1. Check for Error Codes: Look for Error code dC or dL on the display.
  2. Test the Door: Push the door in while starting. If it starts, it is a door strike or door latch alignment issue.
  3. Listen to the Lock: If it clicks 3 times and stops, replace the door lock assembly.
  4. Inspect the Pump: Clean the filter to rule out a jammed drain pump.
  5. Examine the Board: If the door locks but the cycle halts with clicking from the console, suspect a bad relay switch on the main control board.
  6. Check Connections: Ensure the wiring harness to the drive motor and Hall sensor is secure.

By systematically isolating these components, you can often identify the failing part without the need for an expensive service call. Remember to always unplug the unit before testing internal components to ensure safety.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my Samsung washer click three times and then stop?

This rhythmic clicking is usually the door lock assembly attempting to engage. If the solenoid tries to move the locking bolt but the “locked” signal isn’t sent back to the main control board—often due to a misaligned door strike or a faulty internal switch—the machine will click several times before giving up as a safety precaution.

What does the “dC” error code mean when my washer is clicking?

The dC (Door Check) error code indicates that the washer cannot verify the door or lid is securely closed. This often accompanies the clicking sound when the door latch is physically blocked by debris or if the door strike is cracked, preventing a successful connection with the locking mechanism.

Can a clogged drain pump cause the washer to click and not start?

Yes. Samsung washers often begin their cycles by briefly running the drain pump. If the pump impeller is jammed by a foreign object like a coin or button, the control board’s relay will click to send power to the pump, but the system will abort the cycle when it detects the pump is not spinning.

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How do I know if the clicking sound is coming from the control board or the door lock?

The location of the sound is key. If the clicking comes from the door area, the door lock assembly is likely the issue. If the clicking sound originates from the back or top console area of the machine (where the electronics are housed), it is likely a relay switch on the main control board failing to send power to the motor or pump.